Spitsbergen & High Arctic from Galapagos Travel

The Arctic and North Atlantic islands and coastlines offer some of the finest scenery and wildlife experiences in the world. Visitors to the region can witness enormous colonies of seabirds thronging the cliffs and shores, and enjoy the thrilling antics of whales and dolphins at sea, and seals and walrus hauled out on the rocks and ice floes. You may even encounter the very symbol of the Arctic - the Polar Bear. Though remote and sparsely populated today, many of the places we explore have been inhabited in the last 5000 years, and thousands of unique prehistoric and historic sites are a testimony to the thriving cultures of the past.

Spitsbergen (Svalbard), with its rugged mountains, sweeping tundra, ice caps and glaciers, is a true High Arctic archipelago, and only 500 miles from the North Pole. Its abundant wildlife was once a huge draw for whalers and trappers but now discerning visitors are discovering the attractions of huge Arctic seabird colonies and the chance to enjoy and photograph species like Walrus, Reindeer, Arctic Fox and of course, Polar Bear.

Mid-summer at these latitudes the sun will not set, providing endless photographic possibilities: Spitsbergen at midnight

Most of Svalbard's 62,000 sq km are unspoilt and incredibly beautiful, with no roads outside of the 2 settlements - Longyearbyen with 2,000 residents, and the Russian community of Barentsburg with 1,000 residents. The area is best explored by ice-strengthened expedition ship, using Zodiacs for shore landings. The coast is mostly ice free in the summer and colorful wildflowers, mosses and lichens abound. The photographic opportunities are stellar as one explores the surreal landscape of fjords, glaciers and icebergs, and the extraordinary wildlife that makes its home here.

We first began traveling to Spitsbergen in 2001, and began sharing it with our own explorers in 2004, offering the occasional expedition since that time, most recently in 2011. At present we have no plans to offer a group departure to Spitsberen in the future. The reason for this is nothing to do with Spitsbergen, but rather our own limited time and not wanting to "spread ourselves too thin." On the contrary, during the 10 years we have been venturing to Spitsbergen it seems that the bear and walrus sightings are getting better each year!

We know the area well; we know the Tour Operators that specialize in it; we know many of the vessels that ply the rugged coastline; and we know the logistics of getting you there. In short, we know Spitsbergen! We would be delighted to work with you to book the perfect trip to match your schedule, interests and budget.

Much like the Galapagos, or Antarctica, many expeditions are short - often just 7 nights. That's ok if that's all the time you have, but it will likely leave you wondering what you missed. To really get a feel for the area, and increase you wildlife viewing possibilities we suggest a longer voyage - 9 to 12 days preferably. The archipelago is vast, and you don't want to rush the experience!

What Might Your Polar Expedition Look Like?

Arrival in Norway
Oslo, Norway, is the jumping off point for flights to Spitsbergen, with several flights per day during the summer months. Based on flight schedules you will likely need to spend one night in Oslo at the start of the trip - there is no shortage of things to keep one occupied in the city however, even if you're not a "city person." Our favorite group of museums anywhere are located on an island in the harbor - Amundsen's Fram Museum containing his Polar exploration vessel; Thor Heyerdahl's Kon Tiki Museum, with his vessel of the same name; and the Viking Ship Museum.

Flight to Longyearbyen and afternoon embarkation
Flight time between Oslo and Longyearbyen is roughly 5 hours, with a morning departure getting you to the island in plenty of time for an afternoon boarding of your expedition ship. Your Tour Operator will likely meet participants and transfer you the short distance to either the ship dock or town center. The expedition ships typically board passengers around 4 or 5pm, sailing out of the Fjord Isfjorden by early evening. The waters are very calm compared to the Antarctic and due to the shallow seas and the northward flow of the Gulf Stream, the climate is much milder than one would expect so far north.

Of course you might also prefer to arrive in Longyearbyen a day early and spend a night in this northern outpost - Longyearbyen bills itself as the northernmost town in the world. Accommodation options range from a small Radisson Hotel to several simple guesthouses. The small town is colorful and its environs are bright with wildflowers beginning to bloom, and Svalbard Ptarmigan (a subspecies of the Rock Ptarmigan) and Snow Buntings nesting on the outskirts. Strolling around this former mining town you might well cross paths with Svalbard Reindeer (and endemic sub-species). Both the parish church and Polar Museum are well worth visiting.

Expedition Cruise
Spend the next 7 to 12 days exploring the rugged coastline of Spitsbergen. See the following section for a few of the frequently visited sites around the archipelago.

Disembarkation and flight home
The ship will likely return to port very early this last morning on board. Following breakfast and passport control disembark and transfer to the airport for your return flight to Oslo and continuing flights home.

	June, July or August? The Arctic season is short, with the weather, and to an even greater degree the ice, controlling where your expedition goes. Typically by early June the seasonal ice will have receded to the point were most of western Spitsbergen, warmed by the gulf stream, is largely ice free. This enables expedition ships to undertake an in-depth exploration of the western coast, both north and south of Longyearbyen. Traveling mid-summer one can still expect to see plenty of ice - the perfect place to find bears and seals. Mid-season is also remarkable for the density of the bird colonies and the cacophony of activity there, with expeditions often exploring part of the Hinlopen Straight which separates the two largest islands in the archipelago. By late-season the ice may have receded to the point where an expedition might attempt a full circumnavigation of the archipelago - bears continue to be found along the ice edge particularly to the north and east at this time.

Ship's Itinerary
While each ship and tour operator will have a planned itinerary for their voyage, the actual routing will be forged around the ice and weather conditions at the time, with the aim of doing as much as possible. Your days will be filled with exciting landings, zodiac cruising, and ship-based wildlife viewing. In addition the expedition teams offer lectures on the wildlife behavior you are seeing, plus the geology, flora and history of the High Arctic

What wildlife might be seen?
Unlike Antarctica, Svalbard has terrestrial predators - the Arctic Fox and Polar Bear - so almost all of the birds nest on cliffs inaccessible to these hungry predators. The wildlife is not quite as approachable as in Antarctica, but because Svalbard never had an indigenous population its wildlife is less afraid of people than in any other Arctic region. Reindeer, Arctic Fox, and Walrus can at times be approached within 20 feet. We'll keep a bit more distance between ourselves and Polar Bear!

Pelagic whale species such as Humpback, Blue, Minke, Fin and Greenland (Bowhead) are possible. Keep your eye out for Narwhal, which on rare occasions pass through these northern waters in July. There is a decent chance to see Beluga in the southern fjords.

Harp Seals congregates and molt off some of the southern islands, with Ringed Seals, Bearded Seals, and Hooded Seals all being more common in the central and northern archipelago.

We'll visit some of the fantastic bird cliffs where Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars, Glaucous Gulls, and several species of alcids breed, including Dovekie (Little Auk), Black Guillemot, Brünnich's Guillemot, and Atlantic Puffin.

Along the rocky shores watch for nesting Arctic Terns and Arctic Skuas. Inland you might see goose colonies - Pink-footed, Barnacle, and Brant - along with Common Eider, King Eider, Red-throated Loons, Long-tailed Ducks, Red Phalaropes, and Svalbard Ptarmigan. Ivory Gulls breed farther inland although we are likely to see them foraging along the sea ice.

A few of the places you might visit depending on your routing:

Hornsund • A major fjord south of Bellsund and north of the tip of Spitsbergen is the large and rugged Hornsund, which has 14 large glaciers and rich marine wildlife, including seabird cliffs, Polar Bears, seals, and Belugas, plus interesting geological formations. One of the major migration routes of a Polar Bear population is up Hornsund Fjord, across to the east side of Spitsbergen, south to the tip at Sørkapp, and back up the west side into Hornsund again. The mountain peaks on the south side of Hornsund, Hornsundtind (1,431m) and Bautaen, show why the early Dutch explorers named the island Spitsbergen, meaning "pointed mountains." A Polish research station is located in Hornsund Fjord and the mountains behind it are home to thousands of nesting Little Auks (Dovekies).

Stormbukta • Going south, before reaching the tip of Spitsbergen, we may try to land at Stormbukta near a Kittiwake colony and post-volcanic springs.

Sandhamna • Near Sørkapp Island, where Harp Seals like to molt at the southern tip of Spitsbergen, we may make a landing at Sandhamna. Due to different ocean currents that meet and swirl around this southern tip of land, dead animals are often washed ashore here, attracting Polar Bears to the area. The land is dotted with lakes, which are home to geese and loons, and, occasionally, migrant birds that have lost their way are also spotted here.

Isbukta • On the southeastern side of Spitsbergen, Isbukta is a secluded ice-filled bay surrounded by a spectacular glacier front. Its waters are rich in marine mammals.

Bölscheøya • This charming island is in the small archipelago of Tusenøyane, to the south of Edgeøya. Bölscheøya has many remains of Walrus and Right Whales. On a happier note, there are Red Phalaropes, Arctic Skuas, Red-throated Loons, and possibly the Pale-bellied Brant Goose, a subspecies found only on Spitsbergen, Franz Josef, and occasionally in Greenland.

Aekongen • Also in this same multitude of small islands south of Edgeøya, Aekongen has a complete Right Whale skeleton, spectacular basalt rock columns, and Common Eiders often nesting in July.

Risetreppen • There are two beautiful canyons located at Risetreppen in Keilhaubukta, south of Edgeøya. The canyons are home to small colonies of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Black Guillemots. There are also raised beaches littered with sub-fossil whale skeletons. The beaches are foraging areas for the hardy Spitsbergen Reindeer.

Kraussbukta • Just north of Kvalpynten, the southwest tip of Edgeøya, there is a big Thick-billed Murre colony at Kraussbukta. The tundra here is covered with small ponds for breeding Red-throated Loons, Pink-footed Geese, and Grey Phalaropes.

Freemansundet • At the northwest tip of Edgeøya we may proceed through Freemansundet, the strait between Barentzøya and Edgeøya. This passage is wonderful for observing Walruses, seals, and even the elusive Northern Right Whale, which was hunted to near extinction in the 19th century.

Kong Karls Land • In the eastern part of the Svalbard Archipelago is Svalbard's most strictly protected nature reserve, Kong Karls Land. This is the most important denning area for Polar Bears and is a haven for seabirds and other mammals. Ships may not approach the reserve closer than 500 meters (1,650 feet); landings obviously are prohibited. Cruising northeast, we may pass Svenskøya, the westernmost island in Kong Karls Land. There will be plenty of pack ice and there is a good chance we will see Polar Bears, Harp and Ringed seals, Ivory Gulls, and Pomarine Jaegers (Skuas).

Svartknausflya • On southern coast of Nordaustlandet, the most northerly of the major islands, is Svartknausflya, a "polar desert" that gets so little precipitation that even the hardy tundra plants cannot survive. The bare, sandy hills are a strong contrast to the world's third largest ice cap, several hundred miles long, which plunges into the sea not far away.

Alkefjellet • If ice conditions permit, we will sail northwest through Hinlopenstretet, the strait that separates Spitsbergen to the west and the big island of Nordaustlandet to the northeast. Along Lomfjordshalvøya, a big glacial thumb protruding from the coast of Spitsbergen into the strait, are the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. The basalt pillars, rising to hundreds of feet, and the overhanging ice cap with its waterfall are amazing. The cliffs are the breeding ground for thousands of Thick-billed Murres (Brünnich's Guillemots).

Augustabukta • On the eastern side of Hinlopenstretet, across from Lomfjordshalvøya, the huge island of Nordaustlandet offers more great wildlife sites. Augustabukta is a good place to see Spitsbergen Reindeer, Pink-footed Geese, and Walrus. We may also visit a cliff where the rare Ivory Gull breeds.

Liefdefjorden • If the ice is light here in the northernmost regions of Spitsbergen, we may sail to the mouth of Liefdefjorden and go ashore for a walk on the tundra of Andøya. Many Common Eiders and Pink-footed Geese nest here and the less common King Eider may also be seen. Monacobreen, with its five-kilometer long face, is an impressive glacier at the end of this large fjord. Polar Bears have been seen on the glacier and the waters from its front are a favorite feeding spot for thousands of Kittiwakes.

Raudfjorden • Further west along the north coast of Spitsbergen, Raudfjorden is a beautiful fjord with spectacular glaciers. It is home to Ringed and Bearded Seals, seabird colonies and surprisingly rich vegetation.

Ytre Norskøya • The small island of Ytre Norskøya, on the northwest coast of Spitsbergen has an accessible breeding ground of Little Auks, Black Guillemots, Brünnich's Guillemots, Puffins and Arctic Skuas.

Krossfjorden • On the west side of Spitsbergen, on our way back to Longyearbyen, Krossfjorden is a good place for a Zodiac cruise along the famed 14th of July Glacier or Fjortende Julibreen. Large numbers of Kittiwakes and Brünnich's Guillemots nest on the nearby cliffs. There is also a good chance to spotting Arctic Foxes below the cliffs and Bearded Seals in the fjord.

Ny Ålesund • Just south of Krossfjorden is Ny Ålesund, the world's northernmost settlement. Once a mining village served by the world's most northerly railway, it is now home to a research base for the Norwegian Polar Institute. The tiny settlement is a breeding ground for Barnacle Geese, Pink-footed Geese, and Arctic Terns. Ny Ålesund is also the location of the anchoring mast used by Amundsen and Nobile in the airship Norge and by Nobile in the airship Italia before their flights to the North Pole in 1926 and 1928 respectively.

Alkhornet • At the mouth of Isfjorden, the largest of all Spitsbergen's fjords, we may land at Alkhornet where seabirds nest on the cliffs and Arctic Foxes search the cliff base for fallen eggs and chicks. Also at the base of the cliffs, Spitsbergen Reindeer graze the relatively luxuriant vegetation. Continue up Isfjorden to return to Longyearbyen.

	Expedition Ships Your expedition ship will be ice-strengthened and ideal for exploring the Svalbard region. Most vessels converted for Polar expedition cruising were built in northern Europe or Russia, and are today manned by expert Russian crews knowledgeable in these waters. Sizes vary from roughly 50 tour participants up to closer to 120 participants. An expedition team of expert naturalist guides, european chefs, a hotel manager and doctor round out the typical staff. Most vessels will have an open bridge and extensive outside viewing decks. Several also feature indoor view lounges. All utilize inflatable Zodiac craft for shore excursions. Other amenities or activities vary, possibly including kayaking, or trekking and camping.

	Sign me up! If the High Arctic has sparked your imagination and fueled your wanderlust please give us a call. Most tour operators set their schedule roughly 12 to 14 months in advance and we would be happy to match you with the perfect program to suit you! Of course we also just love talking about the area so let us know if you have any questions!

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