High Arctic ...

The Trip of a Lifetime

from GALAPAGOS TRAVEL

Spitsbergen & the High Norwegian Arctic

July 27 - August 8, 2011

The Arctic and North Atlantic islands and coastlines offer some of the finest scenery and wildlife experiences in the world. Visitors to the region can witness enormous colonies of seabirds thronging the cliffs and shores, and enjoy the thrilling antics of whales and dolphins at sea, and seals and walrus hauled out on the rocks and ice floes. You may even encounter the very symbol of the Arctic - the Polar Bear. Though remote and sparsely populated today, many of the places we explore have been inhabited in the last 5000 years, and thousands of unique prehistoric and historic sites are a testimony to the thriving cultures of the past.

Spitsbergen (Svalbard), with its rugged mountains, sweeping tundra, ice caps and glaciers, is a true High Arctic archipelago, and only 500 miles from the North Pole. Its abundant wildlife was once a huge draw for whalers and trappers but now discerning visitors are discovering the attractions of huge Arctic seabird colonies and the chance to enjoy and photograph species like Walrus, Reindeer, Arctic Fox and of course, Polar Bear.

Spitsbergen at midnight

Longyearbyen (the administrative center of Spitsbergen, with 2000 residents), and the Russian community of Barentsburg (with 1000 residents) are the main settlements - most of Svalbard's 62,000 sq km are unspoilt and incredibly beautiful. Outside of the settlements, there are no roads on Spitsbergen, so this world of natural wonders is most easily and safely explored on an expedition cruise, using Zodiacs for shore landings. The coast is mostly ice free in the summer and colorful wildflowers, mosses and lichens abound. The photographic opportunities are stellar as we explore the surreal landscape of fjords, glaciers and icebergs, and the extraordinary wildlife that makes its home here.

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Mammals and Seabirds of the Norwegian Arctic
(Longyearbyen - Longyearbyen)

July 27 (Wednesday) • Flights from home to Longyearbyen through Oslo, Norway
Depart at the latest by July 27 to connect in Europe to Oslo, although the flight schedules may require that you depart by July 26 or earlier.

July 28 (Thursday) • Morning flight to Longyearbyen and afternoon embarkation
Fly at the latest by this morning to Longyearbyen. Upon arrival, you may transfer directly to our ship at the dock, located between the Svalbard Airport and town.

Longyearbyen, the northernmost town in the world, is a charming place and well worth a visit. If you opt to arrive earlier accommodation options range from the SAS Radisson to simple guesthouses. The small town is colorful and its environs are bright with wildflowers beginning to bloom, and Svalbard Ptarmigan (a subspecies of the Rock Ptarmigan) and Snow Buntings nesting on the outskirts. Strolling around this former mining town you might well cross paths with Svalbard Reindeer (and endemic sub-species). Both the parish church and Polar Museum are well worth visiting.

We board the MS Quest by 4:00 pm on July 28 and will depart at about 6:00 pm. The Quest will sail out of the Fjord Isfjorden by early evening. The waters are very calm compared to the Antarctic and due to the shallow seas and the northward flow of the Gulf Stream, the climate is much milder than one would expect so far north. The Arctic summertime will be in full swing, so bring plenty of sunscreen, as well as the other polar essentials like warm clothes!

July 29 - August 6 (Friday - Saturday) • aboard the MS Quest
Even traveling mid-summer we can expect to see plenty of ice - the perfect place to find bears and seals. Mid-season is also remarkable for the density of the bird colonies and the cacophony of activity there. Our exact itinerary will be forged around the ice and weather conditions, with the aim of a truly in-depth expedition. Our days will be filled with exciting landings, zodiac cruising, and ship-based wildlife viewing. In addition the expedition team will offer a series of lectures on the wildlife behavior we are seeing, plus the geology, flora and history of the High Arctic.

Working in concert the Captain and Expedition Team will map out our itinerary. If ice conditions are heavy we will likely start our expedition by going south from Longyearbyen, into Bellsund Fjord and Hornsund Fjord, and then out to the sea ice south of Spitsbergen. The small island of Sorkapp is where Harp Seals congregate to molt on ice floes. Another great area to explore is Bear Island and the neighboring Continental Shelf to the west - a region known for whales as well as foraging seabirds. Bear Island itself is home to bird colonies as dense as anywhere in the northern hemisphere. The bird cliffs here are phenomenal sea stacks that rise hundreds of feet out of nowhere, packed with birds, some of which breed here almost exclusively. The cliffs are on the west side of the island, which is more vulnerable to wind than the east, making landing more difficult. Weather permitting, we will be able to land and hike up from the east side of this narrow island to walk alongside the cliffs and look down from above the nesting area! In these waters we have our best chance of seeing pelagic whale species such as Humpback, Blue, or Greenland (Bowhead).

Continuing, we will find the edge of the pack ice, ideal for foraging Polar Bears, seals, and seabirds. Following the ice to the east we will reach North Spitsbergen, and maybe sail into Hinlopen Strait. We'll then sail back along the west Spitsbergen coast, with multiple landings, until arriving in Longyearbyen.

Alternately, in lighter ice conditions, we may begin the expedition by sailing north to the ice line - an area rich in Walrus. From here we might sail into the eastern parts of the Svalbard archipelago, very rich in Polar Bears, seals and seabirds. Later we cruise south to Diskobukta on the island of Edgeøya. After a Zodiac cruise through the shallow bay we might land on a beach littered with whale bones and tree trunks (the driftwood having made the journey all the way from Siberia). We can also climb to the rim of a narrow gully which is inhabited by thousands of Black-legged Kittiwakes, together with Black Guillemots and piratical Glaucous Gulls. During the breeding season, the base of the cliffs is patrolled by Arctic Foxes and Polar Bears (especially females with young cubs).

South of the island of Edgeøya is Tusenøyane, a localized archipelago containing a myriad of small islands. Two of the tiny islands, Zieglerøya and Dielitschøya, have lakes where many birds nest including Red-throated Loons, Long-tailed Ducks, King Eiders, Brant Geese, and Red Phalaropes. These islands, and nearby Andreetangen, are breeding grounds for Walrus and a favorite hunting area of Polar Bear.

We'll visit some of the fantastic bird cliffs where Black-legged Kittiwakes, Northern Fulmars, and several species of alcids breed, including Dovekie, Black Guillemot, Brünnich's Guillemot, and Atlantic Puffin. We'll keep our eyes out for Narwhal, which on rare occasions pass through these northern waters in July. There is a decent chance to see Beluga in the southern fjords, and we should see Polar Bears, seal, and Ivory Gulls where ice abounds. We'll get inland a bit to see goose colonies - Pink-footed, Barnacle, and Brant - along with Common Eider, King Eider, Oldsquaw, and Svalbard Ptarmigan.

Unlike Antarctica, Svalbard has terrestrial predators - the Arctic Fox and Polar Bear - so almost all of the birds nest on cliffs inaccessible to these hungry predators. The wildlife is not quite as approachable as in Antarctica, but because Svalbard never had an indigenous population its wildlife is less afraid of people than in any other Arctic region. Reindeer, Arctic Fox, and Walrus can at times be approached within 20 feet. We'll keep a bit more distance between ourselves and Polar Bear!

While walking we will stay alert for nesting shorebirds, such as Red Phalaropes, Arctic Terns and Arctic Skuas. Ivory Gulls breed farther inland although we are likely to see them foraging along the sea ice. Our group will have the time, flexibility, and freedom to hike, view bird colonies, explore, and photograph while on shore. However, we must follow Polar Bear protection procedures, which involve staying in groups and keeping within sight of the guides, who are prepared to deal with bears if need be.

A more complete list of possible landing sites follows...

August 7 (Sunday) • Disembark and flight home
Following breakfast we will disembark the MS Quest for the last time this morning. Depending on your flight schedule, you might fly out this morning, or possibly linger a bit to enjoy the charm of Longyearbyen, and catch an afternoon flight out.

August 8 (Monday) • arrive home

Possible Landing Sites during our expedition...

Hornsund • A major fjord south of Bellsund and north of the tip of Spitsbergen is the large and rugged Hornsund, which has 14 large glaciers and rich marine wildlife, including seabird cliffs, Polar Bears, seals, and Belugas, plus interesting geological formations. One of the major migration routes of a Polar Bear population is up Hornsund Fjord, across to the east side of Spitsbergen, south to the tip at Sørkapp, and back up the west side into Hornsund again. The mountain peaks on the south side of Hornsund, Hornsundtind (1,431m) and Bautaen, show why the early Dutch explorers named the island Spitsbergen, meaning "pointed mountains." A Polish research station is located in Hornsund Fjord and the mountains behind it are home to thousands of nesting Little Auks (Dovekies).

Stormbukta • Going south, before reaching the tip of Spitsbergen, we may try to land at Stormbukta near a Kittiwake colony and post-volcanic springs.

Sandhamna • Near Sørkapp Island, where Harp Seals like to molt at the southern tip of Spitsbergen, we may make a landing at Sandhamna. Due to different ocean currents that meet and swirl around this southern tip of land, dead animals are often washed ashore here, attracting Polar Bears to the area. The land is dotted with lakes, which are home to geese and loons, and, occasionally, migrant birds that have lost their way are also spotted here.

Isbukta • On the southeastern side of Spitsbergen, Isbukta is a secluded ice-filled bay surrounded by a spectacular glacier front. Its waters are rich in marine mammals.

Bölscheøya • This charming island is in the small archipelago of Tusenøyane, to the south of Edgeøya. Bölscheøya has many remains of Walrus and Right Whales. On a happier note, there are Red Phalaropes, Arctic Skuas, Red-throated Loons, and possibly the Pale-bellied Brant Goose, a subspecies found only on Spitsbergen, Franz Josef, and occasionally in Greenland.

Aekongen • Also in this same multitude of small islands south of Edgeøya, Aekongen has a complete Right Whale skeleton, spectacular basalt rock columns, and Common Eiders often nesting in July.

Risetreppen • There are two beautiful canyons located at Risetreppen in Keilhaubukta, south of Edgeøya. The canyons are home to small colonies of Black-legged Kittiwakes and Black Guillemots. There are also raised beaches littered with sub-fossil whale skeletons. The beaches are foraging areas for the hardy Spitsbergen Reindeer.

Kraussbukta • Just north of Kvalpynten, the southwest tip of Edgeøya, there is a big Thick-billed Murre colony at Kraussbukta. The tundra here is covered with small ponds for breeding Red-throated Loons, Pink-footed Geese, and Grey Phalaropes.

Freemansundet • At the northwest tip of Edgeøya we may proceed through Freemansundet, the strait between Barentzøya and Edgeøya. This passage is wonderful for observing Walruses, seals, and even the elusive Northern Right Whale, which was hunted to near extinction in the 19th century.

Kong Karls Land • In the eastern part of the Svalbard Archipelago is Svalbard's most strictly protected nature reserve, Kong Karls Land. This is the most important denning area for Polar Bears and is a haven for seabirds and other mammals. Ships may not approach the reserve closer than 500 meters (1,650 feet); landings obviously are prohibited. Cruising northeast, we may pass Svenskøya, the westernmost island in Kong Karls Land. There will be plenty of pack ice and there is a good chance we will see Polar Bears, Harp and Ringed seals, Ivory Gulls, and Pomarine Jaegers (Skuas).

Svartknausflya • On southern coast of Nordaustlandet, the most northerly of the major islands, is Svartknausflya, a "polar desert" that gets so little precipitation that even the hardy tundra plants cannot survive. The bare, sandy hills are a strong contrast to the world's third largest ice cap, several hundred miles long, which plunges into the sea not far away.

Alkefjellet • If ice conditions permit, we will sail northwest through Hinlopenstretet, the strait that separates Spitsbergen to the west and the big island of Nordaustlandet to the northeast. Along Lomfjordshalvøya, a big glacial thumb protruding from the coast of Spitsbergen into the strait, are the bird cliffs of Alkefjellet. The basalt pillars, rising to hundreds of feet, and the overhanging ice cap with its waterfall are amazing. The cliffs are the breeding ground for thousands of Thick-billed Murres (Brünnich's Guillemots).

Augustabukta • On the eastern side of Hinlopenstretet, across from Lomfjordshalvøya, the huge island of Nordaustlandet offers more great wildlife sites. Augustabukta is a good place to see Spitsbergen Reindeer, Pink-footed Geese, and Walrus. We may also visit a cliff where the rare Ivory Gull breeds.

Liefdefjorden • If the ice is light here in the northernmost regions of Spitsbergen, we may sail to the mouth of Liefdefjorden and go ashore for a walk on the tundra of Andøya. Many Common Eiders and Pink-footed Geese nest here and the less common King Eider may also be seen. Monacobreen, with its five-kilometer long face, is an impressive glacier at the end of this large fjord. Polar Bears have been seen on the glacier and the waters from its front are a favorite feeding spot for thousands of Kittiwakes.

Raudfjorden • Further west along the north coast of Spitsbergen, Raudfjorden is a beautiful fjord with spectacular glaciers. It is home to Ringed and Bearded Seals, seabird colonies and surprisingly rich vegetation.

Ytre Norskøya • The small island of Ytre Norskøya, on the northwest coast of Spitsbergen has an accessible breeding ground of Little Auks, Black Guillemots, Brünnich's Guillemots, Puffins and Arctic Skuas.

Krossfjorden • On the west side of Spitsbergen, on our way back to Longyearbyen, Krossfjorden is a good place for a Zodiac cruise along the famed 14th of July Glacier or Fjortende Julibreen. Large numbers of Kittiwakes and Brünnich's Guillemots nest on the nearby cliffs. There is also a good chance to spotting Arctic Foxes below the cliffs and Bearded Seals in the fjord.

Ny Ålesund • Just south of Krossfjorden is Ny Ålesund, the world's northernmost settlement. Once a mining village served by the world's most northerly railway, it is now home to a research base for the Norwegian Polar Institute. The tiny settlement is a breeding ground for Barnacle Geese, Pink-footed Geese, and Arctic Terns. Ny Ålesund is also the location of the anchoring mast used by Amundsen and Nobile in the airship Norge and by Nobile in the airship Italia before their flights to the North Pole in 1926 and 1928 respectively.

Alkhornet • At the mouth of Isfjorden, the largest of all Spitsbergen's fjords, we may land at Alkhornet where seabirds nest on the cliffs and Arctic Foxes search the cliff base for fallen eggs and chicks. Also at the base of the cliffs, Spitsbergen Reindeer graze the relatively luxuriant vegetation. Continue up Isfjorden to return to Longyearbyen.

M/S Quest

The M/S Quest is a specially designed expedition ship with an ice-strengthened hull and state-of-the-art equipment to navigate safely through the ice and narrow waterways. This 160-foot, 1211-ton ship was built in Denmark in 1992 with the highest ice class to serve as a ferry on Greenland's west coast. In 2004/2005 she was completely refurbished to serve as a small and comfortable expedition ship. The M/S Quest can carry 53 passengers in 26 cabins, all with sea views and private facilities. Triple cabins have upper and lower berths; all other cabins have two lower berths or a double bed. All cabins have a desk, chair, and ample storage space for clothes and equipment. The superior cabins are spacious and have a separate sitting area and TV/DVD. The Owner's Cabin, next to the Captain's Cabin on deck 4, has a double bed, two large picture windows, a sitting area and TV/DVD. The electrical current is 220 volts with European style twin prong plugs available in most rooms. Bring a suitable plug adapter for US equipment.

Landings are made possible by a fleet of five zodiacs, accessed from the ship by a convenient hatch with no gangway to descend. Onboard, the bridge is always open to passengers, and in the panorama lounge you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the surrounding Polar landscape. Here you can listen to entertaining lectures on the area's flora, fauna, history and glaciology as well as photographic techniques. In the lounge you also find a well-stocked bar and a small library. Meals prepared by an excellent European chef are served in a comfortable and spacious dining room, keeping us warm and full of energy for the next wildlife encounter.

note: deckplan for reference only - cabins not to scale.

All ship cabins must be shared, except by special arrangement. We will attempt to arrange a cabinmate for you if traveling alone - if we are unable to find a cabinmate there will be no single supplement charge. Selected cabins are available for guaranteed single occupancy at 1.9 times the cabin rate.

Deposits & Payments:
A deposit of $1,000 per person is required to reserve space. A second deposit of $2,000 is due October 1, 2010. The final balance of the Expedition Cost is due April 1, 2011.

Expedition rates include:
Expedition includes 11-days/10 nights aboard the M/S Quest, all meals from dinner on July 28 through breakfast on August 7, six naturalist guides, including the resident naturalist onboard the ship, landing fees and port taxes.

What's not included:
Airfare to or from the gateway city or Longyearbyen, Norway; passport and visa expenses; governmental arrival and departure taxes; airport or ship transfers except as noted; any meals ashore; baggage, cancellation and medical travel insurance; excess baggage charges; laundry, bar, beverage and other personal charges; telecommunications charges; and the customary gratuity at the end of the voyage for the Hospitality Team members, ship's crew and Expedition Team members.

Itinerary:
The itinerary reflects the plan for this expedition and should be read as a general guide only. These are expeditions to remote and rarely visited regions of the world, and flexibility is required. Each cruise offers a full program of shore excursions, using Zodiacs to search out the best wildlife encounters and photographic opportunities available. The itineraries have been meticulously researched to offer exciting, rewarding and incredibly varied experiences, but above all else the crew and expedition staff believe that flexibility is the key to a successful voyage. By constantly assessing and responding to environmental conditions at the time, they are confident of fulfilling visitors' well-deserved expectations of an experience of a lifetime.

Expedition Team:
Ted Cheeseman (Ecologist, Expedition Leader, Lecturer, Zodiac Driver and Photographer) has traveled with Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris since the early 80's and has led and organized expeditions since finishing his graduate degree in conservation biology at Duke University in 2000. Ted's great passion is creating expeditions in which travelers can spend the maximum time possible with wildlife, believing that by coming to know wildlife and wilderness intimately, travelers will have even more respect for the value of wild places in their pristine state.

Vidar Bakken (Ornithologist and Marine Ecologist) has worked extensively as a seabird scientist during his employment of 14 years at the Norwegian Polar Institute. At present, he is on the faculty at the University of Oslo and at the University Centre in Svalbard. Every year since 1986, he has made expeditions to the Arctic and has frequently guided and lectured on Svalbard voyages. He has written books on Arctic wildlife and brings an amazing knowledge of Svalbard to our voyage.

Bjorn Frantzen (Naturalist, Ornithologist, and Arctic Ecologist) brings a great sense of humor and personality in addition to his in-depth knowledge of the Arctic. As leader of the Norwegian Polar Institute's office in Svalbard, former president of the Norwegian Ornithological Society, and current head of the Svalbard Nature Conservation Society in Svalbard, he has extensive experience. Bjørn has also worked with nature conservation in the Russian part of the Barents Region and as a monitor of the oil transportation from the Russian Arctic to Europe and the USA.

An additional 3 Guides will be leading the group, plus Mark Grantham from GALAPAGOS TRAVEL escorting the group. This will be Mark's eighth Polar expedition (fifth in the Arctic) where the combination of the surreal landscapes and incredible wildlife, coupled with the near limitless photographic opportunities of the midnight sun, keep drawing him back!

Shipboard policies:
This is a non-smoking expedition.

Cancellations:
Refunds are given depending on the time remaining prior to departure, according to the following schedule: 180 days or more prior to departure the fee is $400 per person; 179-150 days prior 10% of the tour cost is withheld; 149-120 days prior 40% of the tour cost is withheld; 119 or less days prior and no refunds are possible. All cancellations shall be in writing (fax or e-mail are acceptable). The Boat Operator imposes these terms based on the short season, the small number of departures, and the expense of operating in the High Arctic. In this respect, you are strongly encouraged to purchase Travel Protection Insurance. A comprehensive insurance package is available through GALAPAGOS TRAVEL for all U.S. and Canada residents. You will receive a policy application along with your deposit receipt.

Flights and Hotels:
Arrive in Longyearbyen by the morning of July 28 at the latest. This will likely have you departing your home airport on July 27 at the latest, to connect through Oslo (Gardermoen Airport: OSL). There are at least 5 daily flights between Oslo and Longyearbyen. They are operated by Braathens, and can be booked through Scandinavian Airlines. Roughly one year prior to the expedition schedules and fares will be announced and we will look at the options for a possible group flight. As Braathans in the only airline serving this route, and the flight is long, the fare is high - typically $750-$800.

Depart from Longyearbyen on August 7 or later. An afternoon flight will give you time to explore the area, but if you prefer a morning flight, please check with us for early disembarkation arrangements.

Travel Insurance:
Emergency Medical Insurance is required for this tour. While you are welcome to use any insurance company, we recommend Access America We have been working with them for years and find them reasonable in their requirements and prompt in paying when needed.

Conditions:
Travel to remote places like the Arctic is exciting, but understanding and accepting the risks, both medical and logistical, is important. There is a small infirmary on board the ship and minor medical problems can be treated, but due to the remoteness of most of our itinerary, there can be no expectation for medical evacuation by air or ship, even in cases of trauma. If this fact concerns you too much, do not choose this trip for your vacation. Anyone with health problems needing close medical supervision should not consider going on this trip. Bring enough medication for the duration of the trip for any chronic medical needs, including medication or patches for seasickness. The waters of Svalbard are very sheltered and seasickness is not a problem for the majority of travelers; information about remedies will be provided in your trip materials. When you send your tour deposit and signed reservation form, you certify to us that you do not knowingly have any physical or other conditions that would create a risk for yourself or for other trip participants. Please note that this is a non-smoking expedition.

Expedition Log:
After the completion of your expedition, you can look forward to an illustrated expedition log mailed directly to you. This very descriptive log includes daily sightings, personal accounts, and excellent photographs from our incredible journey.

Responsibility:
This expedition cruise is being chartered and operated by Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris. Galapagos Travel (Aptos, California) and Cheesemans' Ecology Safaris, (Saratoga, California) act only as agents and shall not be responsible or become liable for any delay incurred by any person in connection with any means of transportation, nor for the loss, damage, or injury to person or property by reason of any event beyond the control of the agency or default of such agency suppliers. We reserve the right to cancel the tour prior to departure in which case full refund will constitute full settlement to the passenger. No refund will be made for any unused portion of the tour unless arrangements are made at the time of booking. All rates are based on current tariffs, exchange rates and fuel prices and are subject to adjustment in the event of any change therein. By sending your initial deposit, you agree to accept our payment schedule as a contract. If payments are still outstanding two weeks after the due date, your space may be forfeited. Baggage is at the owner's risk.

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