Madagascar...

The Trip of a Lifetime

from GALAPAGOS TRAVEL

Madagascar!

Much like Galápagos, this is a place that conjures up images of amazing wildlife - wildlife that is among the best in the world in terms of diversity and abundance, and in some cases is as approachable as the wildlife of Galápagos. Madagascar is the world’s fourth largest island, having broken away from Africa well over 150 million years ago. This isolation makes it a living laboratory of evolution, with plants and animals found nowhere else on earth - lemurs, chameleons, geckos, frogs, tortoises, and myriad birds. ...Ringtail Lemurs gathering in groups on the ground to warm up in the morning sun... The haunting calls of Indris high in the forest canopy... A glimpse of a Sifaka as it skips across the trail ahead... Radiated Tortoises, well, just sitting there... At the same time the forests and valleys are filled with wonderful birds - the iridescent Madagascar Kingfishers flitting along the waterways, paradise flycatchers, Madagascar White eyes, Giant Coua, Madagascar Scops Owl, Madagascar Fish-Eagle... The flora too is astounding, from the surreal Boabab trees, to the spiny forests of the west and south, or rainforests of the east.

The landscapes are equally as spectacular - the bright red soil of the highlands; the emerald green forest canopy festooned with orchids and other epiphytes; shades of grey in the limestone karst of the Tsingy; green rushing rivers and cascading waterfalls; white sand beaches, and all of it surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Madagascar truly is a land of rich colors and superlatives!

Neither solely a birding or wildlife tour, nor just a cultural tour, this is a general Natural History tour - a mix of amazing wildlife, spectacular scenery and rich cultural discoveries. The people of Madagascar are amazingly welcoming. They are gracious, friendly and nearly always smiling (and quite often singing). Madagascar is an explorer and photographer's dream in all ways!

We invite you to join us in Madagascar, on one of life's truly great expeditions!

EXPEDITION OVERVIEW & LENGTH:
Our expedition is 24 days in total, including travel days, and timed for the end of the rainy season, when roads are again passable, and the country is at its most beautiful. With more than 3 weeks in Madagascar this is truly an in-depth exploration, taking in 6 distinct reserve areas, including the best wildlife, plus the capital city of Antananarivo.

DATES:
May 25-June 17, 2012

GROUP SIZE:
Group size is limited to just 12 participants, plus the Tour Leader and in-country guides.

ITINERARY:

May 25 • PARIS DEPARTURE
Late morning meet at the Air Madagascar ticket counter in the Charles DeGaulle (Paris) International airport for our 1:05pm departure.

May 26 ∙ MADAGASCAR: ANTANANARIVO to PERINET
Our flight will arrive in Madagascar very early this morning. Visas may be secured on arrival. After clearing customs and immigration we will transfer the short distance into Antananarivo (Tana) – the capital city. The city is spread over several hilltops, with the surrounding flatlands dominated by rice farming and agriculture. The lovely Hotel Pavillon de l ´Emyrne will have our (day) rooms waiting for us on arrival so that we may rest this early morning. Late morning, we will explore the old city, including the area around the Queen’s Palace… fantastic views, all steeped in history. Following lunch we will travel overland, heading east, descending from the dry highlands to the farm and rainforest dominated landscape surrounding Andasibe National Park (Perinet). Late-afternoon/early-evening we will take an exploratory guided hike in the environs – our first experience with Madagascar´s nature, where almost everything is endemic! We’ll be on the look out for nocturnal lemurs, frogs, reptiles... Overnight: Vakona Lodge.

May 27 ∙ PERINET
Today is a full day of exploration in the Mantadia national park. This park is especially rich in birdlife, Nuthatch Vanga, the elusive Red-breasted and Red-fronted Couas, and Madagascar Rail. Overnight: Vakona Lodge.

May 28 ∙ PERINET to TANA
The Perinet Reserve (Mantadia-Andasibe National Park) area is home to the largest of the lemurs, the Indri - its call through the forests is haunting, and close up, indescribable! This morning a hike will take us to an area where we have excellent chances of seeing this fascinating creature close up. After lunch, and an optional visit Lemur Island – a small island preserve where you might have closer-than-wild encounters with several species of lemur, we depart for Tana. The cool forests of the Eastern slopes give way to the more sparsely vegetated hauts-plateaux, with the red thatched houses, and bustling village and city life. Overnight: Pavillon de l ´Emyrne, set amid the winding streets of central Tana.

May 29 ∙ TANA & MAROANSETRA
This morning following a visit to Ambohimanga, the former country palace of Andrianampoinimeria (18th century King of the Merina) we will transfer to the airport. Midday flight to Maroansetra, on the east coast. Looking down from the flight, as we near the coast the tropical greens and red earth of the highlands will give way to the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. We will arrive as late afternoon/ evening starts to close in, and will get a pleasant if brief experience of this sleepy but busy, very Malagasy town. Overnight: Relais du Masoala.

May 30 ∙ MASOALA PENINSULA
This morning we will transfer to the port, then continue by boat to the remote Masoala Peninsula and the Masoala Forest Lodge (roughly 90 minutes by speedboat). The Masoala Peninsula is largely National Park, and is a fascinating area where the rain forest comes practically down to the ocean, with coastal vegetation different from inland rain forest. This lodge is a luxury tented camp, with 6 twin rooms, so we will be taking the entire camp.

May 31 & June 1 ∙ MASOALA PENINSULA
Two full days of exploration in the park, from forest waterfalls, winding streams and extensive boulder strewn empty beaches. White-fronted Brown Lemurs, Red-ruffed Lemurs, Tenrecs, Tomato Frogs, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Common Newtonia, Madagascar White-Eye, Madagascar Malachite Kingfisher and Helmet Vanga all might be possible. In addition to hiking and canoe excursions there are options for kayaking and snorkeling along the shoreline (kayak & snorkeling equipment included). At night we will look for Eastern Woolly Lemurs, and Small-toothed Sportive Lemurs, as well as weird reptiles! Overnights: Masoala Forest Lodge.

June 2 ∙ MAROANSETRA & TANA
This morning we return to Maroansetra, where we will have a few hours to explore Maroansetra with its busy waterfront, markets, and friendly people, before our mid-afternoon flight to Tana. Overnight: Pavillon de l ´Emyrne.

June 3 ∙ TANA to FORT DAUPHIN & BARENTY
Early morning transfer to the airport for our flight to Fort Dauphin (Taolagnaro) on the southern coast. On arrival we will set out by mini-bus for the inland Berenty Reserve. Along the way we will likely stop at a local market or the Andohahela National Park with its spiny and transitional forests. Overnight: Berenty Private Reserve.

June 4 & 5 ∙ BARENTY
At Berenty we will thoroughly explore the riverine gallery forest, where we will find large troops of curious Ring-tailed Lemurs, plus Verreaux Sifaka, Madagascar Flying Fox, Giant Coua, Hook-billed Vanga and so much more. We will again plan a night hike here, plus possibly visit one of the surrounding sisal plantations. Overnights: Berenty Private Reserve.

June 6 ∙ FORT DAUPHIN to TANA and on to TOLIARA
Early this morning we return to Fort Dauphin for our flight to Tana. We’ll be back in Tana in time for lunch and an afternoon of exploration, likely including the Route des Digues artesan market… a selection of delightful craft articles, many quite unusual and unique. We fly early-evening to Toliara, on the southwest coast. Overnight: Hotel Le Paletuvier, Toliara.

June 7 ∙ AMBOLA
This morning we will transfer by motorboat, followed by 4-wheel drive jeeps… Traveling down this remote section of the coast we are in the heart of the dry spiny forests of the southwest, ultimately arriving in the village of Ambola. Overnight: Domaine D´Ambola, located directly on the seemingly-endless spectacular white sand beach outside of the village.

June 8 ∙ AMBOLA & TSIMANAMPETSOTSA
A full day touring the Tsimanampetsotsa National Park, traveling in the local fashion, by Omby (ox) cart. The park is famous for its spiny forest (many plants look like cacti, but are in a separate Didiereaceae family), blind cave fish, and a huge lake populated by Greater Flamingo. Only opened to visitors a few years ago, the visit here will be a true adventure. Overnight: Domaine D´Ambola.

June 9 ∙ AMBOLA
This morning fishing pirogues will take us out to the surrounding reef, with an option for snorkeling. The snorkeling is good (including several species familiar from the Galápagos), and the water reasonably warm, although the coral has suffered in recent years. The afternoon is at leisure for simply taking in where you are – beachcombing, visiting the village, hiking, reading, or watching the sun set over the water from the huge covered veranda of the hotel. Overnight: Domaine D´Ambola.

June 10 ∙ TOLIARA
Today we return by vehicle and boat to Toliara, where we will have time to explore a bit – a local museum has a preserved specimen of the prehistoric coelocanth fish on display. Overnight: Hotel Le Paletuvier, Toliara.

June 11 ∙ MORONDAVA to KIRINDY
This morning a short flight will take us up the west coast to the commerce-rich city of Morondava. Traveling by 4-wheel drive vehicles we depart for the Kirindy deciduous dry forest reserve, via the famous Avenue des Baobabs. These amazing trees look as if they have put their head in the ground, and roots in the air! The accommodation here is simple, but just for one night. On the other hand, wildlife is spectacular: Verreaux Sifaka, Red-fronted Lemur, Grey Mouse-Lemur, Leaf-tailed Gecko and chameleons. Also, if we are lucky, Madagascar Ground Boa, and Fosa – Madagascar’s top predator. Birds include Crested Coua, Madagascar Green Pigeon, and Madagascar Nightjar. Overnight: Kirindy Preserve.

June 12 ∙ KIRINDY to BEKOPAKA
Today we continue inland and north towards the village of Bekopaka. Our journey involves two traditional river crossings by simple ferry, and gives a good glimpse into the lives of the Sakalava people, with their herds of cattle and scattered homes. Arriving at Bekopaka early evening, we’ll have time to settle in before dinner at the lovely hilltop Hotel L ´Orchidee Bemaraha (complete with a swimming pool). Overnight: Hotel L ‘Orchidee Bemaraha.

June 13 & 14 ∙ TSINGY
We will have two full days to explore this area of amazing limestone karst landscape (a UNESCO World Heritage site); the Petit Tsingy and the Grand Tsingy – utterly indescribable landscape, plus unique wildlife surprises such as the delightful Decken´s Sifaka, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Giant Jumping Rat, Sickle-billed Vanga, Madagascar Wood-rail (soon to be declared a new species; the Tsingy Wood-rail) and maybe the rare Madagascar Fish-Eagle on the Manambolo River. As a limestone area, there are some amazing caves to explore, and the Tsingy itself has been made accessible via hanging bridges, sturdy ladders and ingenious footholds - fantastic explorations! On the second day we will savor a tranquil pirogue paddle along the river with a picnic lunch on a sandbar. Overnights: L ´Orchidee Bemaraha.

June 15 ∙ BEKOPAKA to MORONDAVA
Today is a full day on the road, wending our way back to Morondava. Our goal is to return through the Avenue of the Boababs at sunset - one of the world-famous Madagascar photo stops... Overnight: the beachfront Hotel Chez Maggie, Morondava.

June 16 ∙ MORONDAVA to TANA
Mid-day we catch our last internal flight, returning to Tana. We will be back in the city with plenty of time for last minute shopping, and maybe a little extra sight-seeing. Farewell dinner in a local restaurant near the hotel (where we will have day rooms), before a late evening transfer to the airport. Day use: Pavillon de l ´Emyrne.

June 17 ∙ TANA – INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE – PARIS
Our international flight (departing at 12:10am) should have us in Paris at 10:05am in the morning.

EXPEDITION COSTS:
The currency of Madagascar is the Ariary, which is at least partially tied to the Euro (Madagascar was a French colony until 1960, when it gained independence). Because of this all in-country prices (hotels, transportation, guides, entrance fees, meals, etc.) will fluctuate based on the strength of the Euro as compared to the U.S. Dollar. Therefore, the final tour cost will be tied to the exchange rate between the Euro and the U.S. Dollar at the time final payment is due. The tour cost (shared double occupancy) is €6,400 (currently (November 2011) equivalent to US$8,600).

INCLUDED IN EXPEDITION COST:
All lodging in Madagascar; all meals with group within Madagascar; tea, coffee & bottled water with meals; bottled water whilst traveling; baggage handling at airports; all tours foreseen as part of our trip; private road transport, where possible with English-speaking driver, always with French-speaking driver; maritime transfers to and from Masoala Forest Lodge, and Domaine d ´Ambola; national park and preserve entrance fees; an expert tour leader accompanying the group within Madagascar; local guides within the national parks & preserves (English speaking when possible, although some will likely be French speaking); tips to local guides, hotel staff, and baggage handlers at airports; pre-departure materials, guide book & map.

NOT INCLUDED IN EXPEDITION COST:
International airfare to and from Madagascar; internal airfares; passport or visa fees; travel insurance (evacuation insurance required); travel inoculations or medications; drinks (except as noted); tips to the Tour Leader; items of a personal nature, including laundry and communications charges.

DEPOSITS & PAYMENTS:
A deposit of $1,000 per person is required to reserve space. The balance of the Land Cost is due 90 days prior to departure. We accept personal checks, Visa & MasterCard for deposits and payments.

CANCELLATIONS & INSURANCE:
Any cancellations shall be in writing. All deposits and payments are non-refundable. In this respect, participants are strongly encouraged to purchase Travel Protection Insurance. At a minimum all participants are required to carry Emergency Medical Evacuation coverage.

FLIGHTS:
We will arrange all flights from Paris, within Madagascar, and return to Paris, with Air Madagascar (AirMad). By utilizing the Air Madagascar group desk and all flying on the same route/dates we are able to have priority reservations on our 8 internal flights, plus beat the standard fares. The total flights in 2010 and 2011 were roughly $2,250, with something similar anticipated for 2012.

ACCOMMODATIONS:
Accommodations will vary with the locations, typically being the best available in any area. They will range from beautiful forest lodges, to deluxe rainforest tented camps, to wonderful beachside accommodations, to boutique city hotels. All accommodations are on a shared double basis. The various hotels and lodges include private baths (except at Kirindy, which is rather rustic) plus mosquito nets over the beds.

MEALS:
All meals within Madagascar are included. Breakfasts will likely be at the hotels, and typically include a choice of eggs, French bread or rolls, juice or fruit, etc. Lunches and dinners tend to be large, and might be at a village restaurant or hotel. We will probably have at least one or two countryside picnics during our travels as well. While it might be possible to keep to a vegetarian diet, it is unfortunately impossible to accommodate vegan diets or some food allergies – if concerned about this please talk to us prior to joining the expedition.

TOUR LEADER:
The Tour Leader for these expeditions is Richard Parsons. Originally from England, Richard is a former resident of Madagascar, and now 20-plus year resident of Ecuador. He not only speaks some Malagasy plus fluent French, but can culturally interact with the locals on many levels. In addition to creating the Semester Abroad programs in Madagascar, his resume includes teaching English in the Dominican Republic, guiding in Galápagos, and founder/owner of the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve in Ecuador. Richard created this Madagascar itinerary specifically for our groups, to share the best of the diverse wildlife, scenery and cultural experiences with our travelers. His passion for Madagascar and her peoples is unmatched.

WHAT TO EXPECT:
An amazing adventure... Incredible flora and fauna... Smiling people... White sand beaches... Beautiful music... Sweeping panoramas... Dancing lemurs...

You might expect to be traveling by jet, turbo prop, speed boat, dugout canoe, 4-wheel drive, mini-bus, deluxe bus, omby cart, river ferry, or pousse-pousse (rickshaw), but first and foremost you will be walking. And, walking a lot. We travel slowly to really see and experience where we are. Our itinerary is longer, taking in most of the major areas. We will fly between many distant parks and preserves to save time on the roads, and give us more time on the trails.

The photographic opportunities are boundless. You will encounter much of the wildlife at close range, including some lemurs and birds, plus reptiles, bugs and amphibians. Many lemur species spend their days high in the forest canopy however, so some views will be more distant. Likewise of course for many of the birds. We will take both day and evening hikes to maximize what we see as some species are only found after dark. The sweeping landscapes always compete for our photographic attention as well. Plus, the people of Madagascar are always happy to interact with us, and usually happy to have their photo taken as well (young and old, everyone loves seeing the results on the digital camera backs!).

Travel to Madagascar is definitely not for everyone however. Madagascar is a third world country, and a very poor and remote one at that. Our 2008 group joked that it was like traveling in a different dimension - nothing would be quite as you expected it to be. One must travel with a sense of humor, and be able to roll with any changes. Flight schedules change almost daily. The roads are famously bad and some of the drives long. The hikes can be on very uneven trails with rocks, roots, and other hidden obstacles. There are few public toilets, so you will likely find yourself behind a bush or tree in the countryside on occasion. The electricity is erratic. The water unsafe (although bottled water is readily available). The food was tasty, and very plentiful, but service slow and the choices limited. It can be cold and wet in the rainforest, and hot and dry in the spiny forests. You might be caked with dust and dirt following a day in the 4-wheel drives. We plan to visit some very remote areas, and medical care can be sparse even in the towns. And yet, it is wonderful, magical, captivating and so worth the effort! In fact, nearly everyone has expressed interest in returning!

NOTES:
The Hotel Pavillon de l ´Emyrne will be our base when in Tana. In addition to being a wonderful hotel, with great food and lovely gardens, it is possible to store any excess baggage here while away on our various expeditions around the country (especially on the trips to Masoala and Ambola, involving the boat crossings, there is limited space to carry luggage). Before each foray from the city Richard will discuss anticipated climate and conditions so that you might fine-tune your packing if you wish. It should also be possible to leave laundry at the hotel in Tana during one stay, and pick it up a few days later when we return.

ITINERARY CHANGES:
Changes in this itinerary are almost to be expected, between AirMAD and Madagascar in general, and we will have to ask for your understanding on this. However, we will be following this itinerary as closely as Madagascar permits!

Photography by Mark Grantham & Mike Tossy