an in-depth expedition

Avenue of the Boababs

Avenue of the Boababs

 
 

Stay tuned for information on our next Madagascar excursion: details coming soon for travel in October/November 2025!

 

Why Madagascar?

Much like Galápagos, this is a place that conjures up images of amazing wildlife - wildlife that is among the best in the world in terms of diversity and abundance, and in some cases is as approachable as the wildlife of Galápagos.  Madagascar is the world’s fourth largest island, having broken away from Africa well over 150 million years ago. This isolation makes it a living laboratory of evolution, with plants and animals found nowhere else on earth - lemurs, chameleons, geckos, frogs, tortoises, and myriad birds. ...Ringtail Lemurs gathering in groups on the ground to warm up in the morning sun... The haunting calls of Indris high in the forest canopy... A glimpse of a Sifaka as it skips across the trail ahead... Radiated Tortoises, well, just sitting there... At the same time the forests and valleys are filled with wonderful birds - the iridescent Madagascar Kingfishers flitting along the waterways, paradise flycatchers, Madagascar White eyes, Giant Coua, Madagascar Scops Owl, Madagascar Fish-Eagle... The flora too is astounding, from the surreal Boabab trees, to the spiny forests of the west and south, or rainforests of the east. 

The landscapes are equally as spectacular - the bright red soil of the highlands; the emerald green forest canopy festooned with orchids and other epiphytes; shades of grey in the limestone karst of the Tsingy; green rushing rivers and cascading waterfalls; white sand beaches, and all of it surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. Madagascar truly is a land of rich colors and superlatives!

Neither solely a birding or wildlife tour, nor just a cultural tour, this is a general Natural History tour - a mix of amazing wildlife, spectacular scenery and rich cultural discoveries. The people of Madagascar are amazingly welcoming. They are gracious, friendly and nearly always smiling (and quite often singing). Madagascar is an explorer and photographer's dream in all ways!

We invite you to join us in Madagascar, on one of life's truly great expeditions!

Malachite kingfisher

Malachite kingfisher

EXPEDITION OVERVIEW & LENGTH:
Our expedition is 25 days in total, including travel days, timed for the season where birds are nesting and wildlife is active, including a good possiblity to see lemur babies, and likely sightings of Malagasy rarities such as the fosa. With 3 1/2 weeks in Madagascar this is truly an in-depth exploration, taking in 6 distinct reserve areas, including the best wildlife, plus the capital city of Antananarivo, and special cultural experiences dotted frequently throughout the trip.

DATES:
October 19-November 12, 2023

GROUP SIZE:
Group size is limited to just 13 participants, plus the Tour Leader and in-country guides. Minimum group size to operate is 6 participants.

ITINERARY:

October 19 • PARIS to ANTANANARIVO (TANA)
Independent arrival into Antananarivo, Madagascar. We recommend the Air France flight departing from Paris’ Charles De Gaulle (CDG) airport (10:50am departure /10:55pm arrival).

Madagascar visas may be secured on arrival. After clearing customs and immigration you will meet your Tour Leader and transfer (group transfer from the Air France flight) to the cozy Hotel Pavillon de l’Émyrne, in the historical lsoraka neighborhood of Old Town Antananarivo (Tana).

October 20 ∙TANA
After a leisurely breakfast, and time to unwind from the long flight yesterday, we take the first part of the Malagasy Royal Tour as we visit the Palais de la Reine/Queen’s Palace and learn about the colourful history of the Malagasy Queens and Kings! Gradually, (note - you will learn the true meaning of this word as we leave Tana!) we drive out through this city of a thousand faces, with its European style churches and markets selling everything you have thought of and never thought of... The second part of the Malagasy Royal Tour of Tana today takes us out to the country palace of Adrianaponimerina (18th century King of the Merina) at Ambohimanga. This place is a haven of peace away from the city, and a place of great devotion and tradition for today’s Merina people. Overnight Tana: Pavillon de l'Émyrne.

October 21 ∙ TANA to ANTSIRABE
Today, we drive south through the beautiful highlands of Imerina. Passing through tiny villages of thatched houses and learning about the customs surrounding the dead-they are housed in buildings that are better constructed than the houses of the living, known as “cold houses”, because the belief is that the dead continue to exist on a different plane, and have influence on the lives of the living. In the larger towns the markets are bustling and fascinating. Great views and photo opportunities even just driving through! Eventually we reach the town of Antsirabe, a town famous for its thermal baths as well as THB... Three Horses Beer! We stay at a pleasant guest house outside town, which helps run schools and artisan workshops for otherwise impoverished local families. Overnight: Antsirabe: Madalief Guesthouse.

Ringtail lemur [Berenty Reserve]

Ringtail lemur [Berenty Reserve]

October 22 ∙ ANTSIRABE to RANOMAFANA
In the gardens around the guesthouse, we will expect to get nice views of some of the more common Malagasy birds, some of which adapt well to this introduced vegetation. Magpie-Robin, Madagascar Kestrel, Madagascar Coucal and more. We then continue south, climbing more into the high plateau of Imerina. Fascinating tall mud brick houses, many of which are built without cement, and so gradually melt back into the elements! We travel through villages that sometimes seem to sell just one item - maybe some unusual fruits to try… as well as the town of Ambositra, famous for its woodwork handcrafts. Time permitting, we may visit a small workshop, where everything is handmade with often very rudimentary tools.

Eventually we reach Ranomafana, after the final hour or so travelling through an increasingly forested landscape. A nice comfortable lodge awaits us. Overnight: Ranomafana: Setam Lodge.

October 23 - RANOMAFANA
The morning takes us to the national park, where we will make our first hike to discover some of the amazing lemurs here. Greater Bamboo Lemur and Golden Bamboo Lemur are always the targets, but Ranomafana is also home to the delightful Milne-Edward’s Sifaka, Red­fronted Brown Lemurs and more. Lunch nearby, and then an afternoon visit to the Valbio Research Station, where we expect to be hosted by Dr. Patricia Wright of Duke University, who was the main person responsible for the creation of the national park in 1991. Dr. Wright’s busy schedule allowing, we expect to be treated to a talk on the history of how this national park carne into being. We will learn about the ongoing research on the fascinating wildlife of the park, and at the same time hope to visit some of the projects created with local people to integrate them into the park and its reason for being... reforestation, medicinal plant gardens and more. A night hike reveals chameleons and nocturnal lemurs, possibly including the Greater Dwarf Lemur. Overnight Ranomafana: Setam Lodge.

October 24 - RANOMAFANA
Today we take the Vohiparara trails at the park’s boundary and look for some of the specialty birds for which Ranomafana is famous: Brown Emutail, Rufous-headed Ground-Roller, Pitta­like Ground-Roller, rare amphibians, and more. Further explorations within the park this afternoon - recently-discovered species often encountered. Overnight Ranomafana: Setam Lodge.

October 25 ∙ RANOMAFANA to MORONDAVA and KIRINDY
Today we drive a fairly short distance south to Fianarantsoa. We then take a charter flight from the small airport here to the commerce-rich city of Morondava on the west coast. 4-wheel drive vehicles will await us and take us beyond the city and out on the road for the Kirindy deciduous dry forest reserve, via the famous Avenue des Baobabs. These amazing trees look as if they have put their heads in the ground, and roots in the air! Wildlife in the Kirindy Dry Forest Reserve is spectacular: Verreaux Sifaka, Red-fronted Lemur, Grey Mouse­Lemur, Leaf-tailed Gecko and chameleons. Also, if we are lucky, Madagascar Ground Boa, the rare and strange Giant Jumping Rat, and the Fosa - Madagascar’s top predator. Birds include Crested Coua, Sakalava Weaver, Madagascar Green Pigeon, and Madagascar Nightjar. Overnight: Relais Du Kirindy.

October 26 ∙ KIRINDY to BEKOPAKA and the TSINGY
Today we continue inland and north towards the village of Bekopaka. Our journey involves two traditional river crossings by simple ferry and gives a good glimpse into the lives of the Sakalava people, with their herds of cattle and scattered homes. We stop for lunch in the bustling market town of Belo-sur-Tsiribina, and continue north, arriving at Bekopaka early evening, we’ll have time to settle in before dinner at our lovely hilltop hotel (complete with a swimming pool). Overnight Bekopaka: Hotel L ‘Orchidee Du Bemaraha.

Grand tsingy

Grand tsingy

October 27 & 28 ∙ TSINGY DE BEMARAHA
We will have two full days to explore this area of amazing limestone karst landscape (a UNESCO World Heritage site); the Petit Tsingy and the Grand Tsingy - utterly indescribable landscape, plus unique wildlife surprises such as the delightful Decken’s Sifaka, Red-fronted Brown Lemur, Sickle-billed Vanga, Tsingy Wood-rail, and maybe the rare Madagascar Fish-Eagle on the Manambolo River. The Tsingy has been made accessible via hanging bridges, sturdy ladders, and ingenious footholds - a labyrinth of fantastic explorations and vast views! A pirogue trip on the Manambolo River brings us to some amazing limestone caves, and ancient tombs high on the cliffs of the Vazimba, the original inhabitants of the Tsingy. Overnights Bekopaka: Hotel L´Orchidee Du Bemaraha.

October 29 ∙ BEKIPAKA to MORONDAVA
Today we return to Morondava. Our goal is to return to the Avenue of the Boababs at sunset, a world-famous Madagascar photo stop! Reaching Morondava, we discover the oasis of Chez Maggie, nestled behind the dunes right close to the beach. Overnight Morondava: Hotel Chez Maggie.

October 30 ∙ MORONDAVA
Today we take an excursion that brings us in contact with the culture of the Vezo fishing people here on the West coast. After breakfast, we take a pirogue trip up north of Morondava to Kivalo Village. We will explore the mangroves, watching the traditional fishing and crabbing techniques, perhaps joining in? Birding should bring some interesting shorebirds, perhaps including the often-elusive Madagascar Plover. We then land at Kivalo Village, where we will experience the Vezo healer “mpanasitrana”, and have a local meal, and then be treated to music and dance, always a joy in Madagascar! Midafternoon we return by 4 x 4 via the inland route, offering another chance to see the Boababs at sunset. Overnight Morondava: Hotel Chez Maggie.

October 31 ∙ MORONDAVA to TANA
This morning is our chance to ride a cycle-rickshaw into the center of this interesting city, the only place where we will find such a strong Muslim culture. Arguably the best place to buy “lambas”- the colorful cloths worn elegantly by many Malagasy women. In the afternoon, we fly back to Tana. In the late afternoon we will feast our eyes and open our pocketbooks for the amazing diversity of Malagasy handcrafts at the large artisan market, Route des Digues. Overnight Tana: Pavillon de l’Émyrne.

November 1 ∙ TANA to the MASOALA PENINSULA
Morning charter flight to Maroansetra, a busy but also very Malagasy port town on the east coast. Looking down from the flight, as we near the coast the tropical greens and red earth of the highlands will give way to the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. From the airport we will transfer to the port. then continue by boat first to Nosy Mangabe lsland, a delightful nature reserve where we have the best opportunity for Leaf-tailed Gecko and rare endemic frogs (Mantella laevigata). We then continue to the remote Masoala Peninsula and the Masoala Forest Lodge (roughly 90 minutes by speedboat). The Masoala Peninsula is largely National Park and is a fascinating area where the rain forest comes practically down to the ocean edge, with coastal vegetation different from inland rain forest. The lodge is a luxury tented camp, with 7 rooms, so we anticipate taking pretty much the entire camp. This afternoon we make our first exploratory hike into the forest near the beautiful coastline. And on our night hike, we wíll be on the lookout for nocturnal lemurs, frogs, reptiles... Overnight: Masoala Forest Lodge.

November 2, 3 & 4 ∙ MASOALA PENINSULA
Three full days of exploration in the park, from forest streams and extensive boulder strewn empty sandy beaches. White-fronted Brown Lemurs, Red-ruffed Lemurs, Tenrecs (similar toa hedgehog, but cuter), Madagascar White-Eye, Hook-billed Vanga, Long-billed Green Sunbird, Madagascar Green Pigeon, Helmet Vanga and more all might be possible. In addition to hiking to find the endemic and very range restricted Red­ruffed Lemur, perhaps enjoy a massage in a small, tented enclosure down on the beach, or a sunset trip on a pirogue exploring the fascinating forests and coastline, there are canoe excursions and options for kayaking and snorkeling along the shoreline (kayak & snorkeling equipment included). At night we will look for Eastern Avahi Lemur, and Small-toothed Sportive Lemurs, as well as weird reptiles! Overnights: Masoala Forest Lodge.

Parson’s chameleon

Parson’s chameleon

November 5 ∙  MASOALA to TANA
Early this morning we travel by boat back to Maroansetra, and then fly back to Tana. Today, we will visit Lake Alarobia, a private wetland reserve which is a haven of peace in the middle of the city. Common Squacco Heron, Dimorphic Egret, White-faced Whistling Ducks, Black-crowned Night Heron and more, in large numbers! Overnight Tana: Pavillon de l’Émyrne.

November 6 ∙ TANA to FORT DAUPHIN, ADHOHAHELA & BERENTY
This morning we fly to Tolagnaro, in the country´s southeast. Soon after arrival, we will set out by private mini-bus for the inland Berenty Reserve, where large troops of curious Ring-tailed Lemurs await us! En route we anticipate visiting a local market, plus stops within the Andohahela National Park with its spiny and transitional forests. Overnight: Berenty Private Reserve.

November 7 & 8 ∙ BERENTY
At Berenty we will explore the riverine gallery forest, where, as well as the Ring-tailed Lemurs, we will find the “dancing” Verreaux Sifaka, Madagascar Flying Fox, Giant Coua, Hook-billed Vanga and so much more. Explorations also take us into the dry spiny forest, right at Berenty. Of all the endemic forest ecosystems of Madagascar, this is perhaps the most other-worldly! Sifaka can climb around the Dideraceae trees with their menacing spines, as if it were an afternoon stroll! Our local guides usually locate Madagascar Scops-Owl and Madagascar Nightjar in this natural maze. We will plan a night hike here, when White-browed Owl often is seen. Overnights: Berenty Private Reserve.

November 9 ∙ BERENTY to FORT DAUPIN and TANA to ANDISIBE
Morning return to Fort Dauphin; always something new enroute to admire or explore! Flight back to Tana, where our transport will meet us for our drive east, from the dry highlands around the capital city to the farm and rainforest dominated landscape of the Eastern slopes surrounding Andasibe National Park (Perinet). Arriving in the late afternoon, we prepare for a night hike in the private Mitsinjo Reserve, where we may discover Eastern Avahi lemur, Mouse Lemurs, strange chameleons, and more. Overnight Andasibe: Eulophiella Lodge.

the local kids find us fascinating!

the local kids find us fascinating!

November 10 ∙ ANDASIBE
This morning we explore the wonders of the Andasibe region, home to the largest of the lemurs, the lndri - its call through the forests is haunting, and close up, indescribable! Our anticipated hike will take us to an area where we have excellent chances of seeing this fascinating creature close up. Lots more to discover too, so we explore these rich environs, looking for Diademed Sifaka (endemic to this region) Common Brown Lemurs, a diversity of Malagasy birds such as the jewel-like Madagascar Kingfisher, Madagascar Paradise Flycatcher, Madagascar Magpie-Robin, Common Newtonia, Madagascar Hoopee, and more. Rare birds such as the elusive Red­breasted and Red-fronted Couas, and Madagascar Raíl might be seen. A second night hike is offered, always something new to discover, such as the incredibly miniature Brookesia chameleon. Overnight Andasibe: Eulophiella Lodge.

November 11 ∙ ANDASIBE to TANA
Further explorations in the National Park this morning to soak in the diversity of wildlife that is here. Then we will make a visit to Lemur lsland - a small island preserve where you might have closer-than-wild encounters with several species of lemur. Lunch, then afternoon return to Tana. We have our rooms back at our Hotel Pavillon, to relax a little and collect together our memories and purchases! Farewell dinner at one of our favorite restaurants to celebrate all we have experienced in this trip. The scheduled return flight back to Paris departs at an early morning hour on November 12.

Comet Moth or Madagascan Moon Moth has a wingspan of nearly 20cm (8 inches)

Comet Moth or Madagascan Moon Moth has a wingspan of nearly 20cm (8 inches)

November 12 ∙ INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE
Air France return flight to París (AF#935) departs Tana at 1:45am, arriving at CDG at 10 :55am.

Leaf-tailed gecko

Leaf-tailed gecko

EXPEDITION COSTS:
$11,730 per person (double occupancy) / $12,330 single but willing to share / $16,870 guaranteed single.

For single travelers we are happy to try and schedule a roommate for you. If we fail to find a roommate you will be invoiced at the "willing to share" rate. Alternately we have a limited number of guaranteed singles available if you prefer. 

INCLUDED IN EXPEDITION COST:
All lodging in Madagascar; all meals with group within Madagascar; tea, coffee & bottled water and soft drinks with meals; bottled water whilst traveling; baggage handling at airports; all tours foreseen as part of our trip; private road transport, where possible with English-speaking driver, always with French­ speaking driver; maritime transfers to and from Masoala Forest Lodge; national park and preserve entrance fees; an expert tour leader accompanying the group within Madagascar; local guides for the main road trips, and within the national parks & preserves (English speaking when possible, although a few may be French speaking); tips to local guides, hotel staff, and baggage handlers at airports; pre­departure materials, guide book & map.

NOT INCLUDED IN EXPEDITION COST:
International airfare to and from Madagascar; internal airfares; passport or visa fees; travel insurance (evacuation insurance required); travel inoculations or medications; drinks (except as noted); tips to the Tour Leader; items of a personal nature, including laundry and communications.

DEPOSITS & PAYMENTS:
An initial deposit of $1,000 per person is required to reserve space. A second deposit of $1,000 will be due 6 months prior to departure. The balance of the Land Cost is due 90 days prior to departure. We accept personal checks, Visa & MasterCard for deposits and payments.

CANCELLATIONS & INSURANCE:
Any cancellations shall be in writing. All deposits and payments are non-refundable. In this respect, participants are strongly encouraged to purchase Travel Protection Insurance. At a minimum all participants are required to carry Emergency Medical Evacuation coverage.

FLIGHTS:
Currently Air France offers the most reliable schedule into Madagascar (and these are the flights which we include airport transfers for).

We will arrange all flights within Madagascar, utilizing both scheduled flights and charter flights. Typically these internal flights are approximately $2,500 per person. 

morning on the Manambolo River

morning on the Manambolo River

ACCOMMODATIONS:
Accommodations will vary with the locations, typically being the best available in any area. They will range from beautiful forest lodges to deluxe rainforest tented camps, to boutique city hotels. All accommodations are on a shared double basis. The various hotels and lodges include prívate baths, plus mosquito nets over the beds.

MEALS:
All meals within Madagascar are included. Breakfasts will likely be at the hotels, and typically include a choice of eggs, French bread or rolls, juice or fruit, etc… Lunches and dinners tend to be large and might be at a village restaurant or hotel. We will probably have at least one or two countryside picnics during our travels as well. While it might be possible to keep to a vegetarian diet, it is unfortunately impossible to accommodate vegan diets or some food allergies - if concerned about this please talk to us prior to joining the expedition.

traditional river ferry, Bekopaka

traditional river ferry, Bekopaka

TOUR LEADER:
The Tour Leader for this expedition is Richard Parsons. Originally from England, Richard is a former resident of Madagascar, and now 40-year resident of Ecuador. He speaks some Malagasy plus fluent French and can culturally interact with the locals on many levels. In addition to creating Semester Abroad programs in Madagascar, his resume includes teaching English in the Dominican Republic, guiding in Galápagos, and founder/owner of the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve in Ecuador. Richard created this Madagascar itinerary specifically for our groups, to share the best of the diverse wildlife, scenery, and cultural experiences with our travelers. His passion for Madagascar and her peoples is unmatched.

WHAT TO EXPECT:
An amazing adventure ... lncredible flora and fauna ... Smiling people... White sand beaches... Beautiful music... Sweeping panoramas... Dancing lemurs...

You might expect to be traveling by jet, turbo prop, speed boat, dugout canoe, 4-wheel drive, mini­ bus, deluxe bus, omby cart, river ferry, or pousse-pousse (rickshaw), but first and foremost you will be walking. And, walking a lot. We travel slowly to really see and experience where we are. Our itinerary is longer, taking in most of the major areas. We will fly between many distant parks and preserves to save time on the roads and give us more time on the trails.

The photographic opportunities are boundless. You will encounter much of the wildlife at close range, including some lemurs and birds, plus reptiles, bugs, and amphibians. Many lemur species spend their days high in the forest canopy however, so some views will be more distant. We will take both day and evening hikes to maximize what we see as some species are only found after dark. The sweeping landscapes always compete for our photographic attention as well. Plus, the people of Madagascar are a delight: always happy to interact with us, and usually happy to have their photo taken as well (young and old, everyone loves seeing the results on the digital camera backs!).

Travel to Madagascar is definitely not for everyone, however. Madagascar is a third world country, and a very poor and remote one at that. Previous groups joked that it was like traveling in a different dimension - nothing would be quite as you expected it to be. One must travel with a sense of humor and be able to roll with any changes. Local flight schedules might change at short notice. The roads are famously bad and some of the drives long. The hikes can be on very uneven trails with rocks, roots, and other hidden obstacles. There are few public toilets, so you will likely find yourself behind a bush or tree in the countryside on occasion. The electricity is erratic. The water unsafe (although bottled water is always readily available). The food is tasty, and plentiful, but service slow and the choices limited. lt can be cold and wet in the rainforest, and hot and dry in the spiny forests. You might be caked with dust and dirt following a day in the 4-wheel drives. We plan to visit some very remote areas, and medical care can be sparse even in the towns. And yet, it is wonderful, magical, captivating and so worth the effort! In fact, nearly everyone has expressed interest in returning to see more!


MadG08 - 2435e.jpg

ITINERARY CHANGES:
This itinerary should be viewed as “fluid.” Changes are to be expected, between Air France, Tsaradia/ Air Madagascar, and Madagascar in general, and we ask for your understanding on this. Each year we have seen the airline change schedules repeatedly, although we are also now taking some reliable charter flights, and on occasion the overall expedition has needed to be shortened by a day or two. Our plan is to visit all areas in the itinerary, although the order that we visit them is always subject to change! We will be following this itinerary as closely as Madagascar permits!

White Sifaka Lemur skipping across the road

White Sifaka Lemur skipping across the road